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Walking the Camino de Santiago: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes

Signs in Fromista walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comThose of you who follow me on Instagram will know that this summer (2018) I walked 190km along the Camino de Santiago, from Burgos to Léon in Spain. This is the third leg of the Camino which I started in 2016 (if you’re interested, I wrote a Q&A post in response to some of the questions people had asked me along the way that year), I’m completing a leg each summer until 2020. This is Day 20 (other posts linked at the end of this post).

Camino Frances Day 20: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes (approx 20km)

The guidebook warns us that “today we have our first taste of the somewhat soulless sendas (pilgrim autopistas) that run alongside the main roads”. Hey, you know, if there’s a safer place for me to walk than directly alongside the main road, I’m all for it!

Camino de Santiago signs walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comBeginning of the pilgrim sendas walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comIt’s always fun to see the pictures from the book come to life…

Pilgrims walking on the sendas walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com(this is pretty much the exact same image as you see in the book!)

I mean, when the choice is a “soulless” path or the main road, I know what I’ll choose everytime!

Walking along the road walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comWildflowers on the Camino de Santiago walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com Soulless sendas walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comRight?

Once again, there were tons of wildflowers along the way today…

Cloudy skies and wildflowers walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com Dramatic skies and wildflowers walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comToday’s route passes by a number of small towns which breaks the monotony of the flat roads… Revenga de Campos was quite charming:

Revenga de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com Pilgrim statue in Revenga de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comAnd today’s route passes by quite possibly the loveliest stop along the way – around 9km in, we arrive in Villarmentero de Campos where Albergue Amanacer is the first place you come across.

Alberge Almencer in Villarmentero de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comLooks magical huh? Especially when you need a coffee after walking nearly 10km…

Coffee in Villarmentere de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comBut wait, there’s more than good coffee… Friendly dogs…

Friendly puppy in Villarmentero de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comFeathered friends…

Friendly ducks in Villarmentero de Campos walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comAnd when I was there, a tiny lamb…

Baby sheep in Villarmentero de CamposIt kind of made you just want to stay there but with less than half the day’s walking done, I needed to press on…

LOTS of monotonous (pretty, but monotonous) landscape this afternoon…

Lonely roads walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com Stormy skies walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comAnd finally, you arrive in Carrión de los Condes…

Arriving in Carrion de los Condes walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com Street in Carrion de los Condes walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comIt’s a gorgeous little town (pop approx 2000)…

Colourful building in carrion de los Condes walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comI’d been booked into the very fancy Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo – a 11th century monastery connected with Order of Cluny, now converted into a Posada – (you can read more about it here). The rooms are beautiful…

Hotel San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comAs is the hotel itself…

Courtyard of Hotel San Zoilo monastery walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comInterior Hotel San Zoilo walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.comOk, so the room WAS very comfortable with an excellent bathroom with a tub, but I didn’t find the welcome very enthusiastic.  Staying in such an historic building, I would have expected some information to be offered about visiting the monastery at checkin but there wasn’t. There was no information in the room really either. Had I not been so tired, I would have explored more but the day before’s efforts (25km) seemed to have caught up on me and I ended up napping and only going for a short walk into town (1km away) instead. I’m sorry I was so tired 🙁

There were a few pilgrims staying there but also a large group of what appeared to be retired Spanish people who were VERY loud when they were arriving which coincided with my pilgrim nap time (chatting with each other down the hallways whose tiled floors just amplified the sound…).

I opted for dinner at the hotel which came in as the most expensive meal I ate on the Camino (there was a €25 pilgrim menu which is double the normal price but I didn’t want that much food and I wanted to try a different wine so I opted for à la carte – €40 for a salad, some ravioli and a 1/2 bottle of wine) but, considering how far out of town the location was, it was the best option for me (also because I was eating on “pilgrim time” the restaurant was pretty quiet which was nice). All this said, as I was passing through reception at one point, one of the women caught up with me and offered a picnic breakfast for me the next day (not an option really but I had expressed disappointment that the breakfast didn’t start until quite late – 8 or 8.30, I think which is far too late if you have 20km to walk!) which was very sweet and much appreciated. You’ll have to check in to my next instalment next week to see how that breakfast was!

Courtyard of Hotel San Zoilo walking from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes with Camino Travel Center on eatlivetravelwrite.com

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Disclosure: I researched Camino trips independently and chose the Camino Travel Center based on a number of features such as flexibility to accommodate a couple of “splits” in some of the longer days, price and customer service. They were, in fact the first company I came across in my very first Google search and the one I ended up booking with. From the initial inquiry to the actual trips, they have been a pleasure to deal with and we have been very impressed with the service provided (bag transportation) and the accommodation choices. I was not compensated to write about this trip in any way but I love sharing companies and products I believe in with my readers. I couldn’t recommend the Camino Travel Center more and, in fact, am booking another Camino walk with them for next summer (and every summer until I reach Santiago!).

Read more about the Camino de Santiago

Click here to read all my posts about the Camino de Santiago!

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