Those of you who follow me on Instagram will know that this summer (2018) I walked 190km along the Camino de Santiago, from Burgos to Léon in Spain. This is the third leg of the Camino which I started in 2016 (if you’re interested, I wrote a Q&A post in response to some of the questions people had asked me along the way that year), I’m completing a leg each summer until 2020. This is Day 20 (other posts linked at the end of this post).
Camino Frances Day 20: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes (approx 20km)
The guidebook warns us that “today we have our first taste of the somewhat soulless sendas (pilgrim autopistas) that run alongside the main roads”. Hey, you know, if there’s a safer place for me to walk than directly alongside the main road, I’m all for it!
I mean, when the choice is a “soulless” path or the main road, I know what I’ll choose everytime!
Once again, there were tons of wildflowers along the way today…
And today’s route passes by quite possibly the loveliest stop along the way – around 9km in, we arrive in Villarmentero de Campos where Albergue Amanacer is the first place you come across.
LOTS of monotonous (pretty, but monotonous) landscape this afternoon…
I’d been booked into the very fancy Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo – a 11th century monastery connected with Order of Cluny, now converted into a Posada – (you can read more about it here). The rooms are beautiful…
Ok, so the room WAS very comfortable with an excellent bathroom with a tub, but I didn’t find the welcome very enthusiastic. Staying in such an historic building, I would have expected some information to be offered about visiting the monastery at checkin but there wasn’t. There was no information in the room really either. Had I not been so tired, I would have explored more but the day before’s efforts (25km) seemed to have caught up on me and I ended up napping and only going for a short walk into town (1km away) instead. I’m sorry I was so tired 🙁
There were a few pilgrims staying there but also a large group of what appeared to be retired Spanish people who were VERY loud when they were arriving which coincided with my pilgrim nap time (chatting with each other down the hallways whose tiled floors just amplified the sound…).
I opted for dinner at the hotel which came in as the most expensive meal I ate on the Camino (there was a €25 pilgrim menu which is double the normal price but I didn’t want that much food and I wanted to try a different wine so I opted for à la carte – €40 for a salad, some ravioli and a 1/2 bottle of wine) but, considering how far out of town the location was, it was the best option for me (also because I was eating on “pilgrim time” the restaurant was pretty quiet which was nice). All this said, as I was passing through reception at one point, one of the women caught up with me and offered a picnic breakfast for me the next day (not an option really but I had expressed disappointment that the breakfast didn’t start until quite late – 8 or 8.30, I think which is far too late if you have 20km to walk!) which was very sweet and much appreciated. You’ll have to check in to my next instalment next week to see how that breakfast was!
Disclosure: I researched Camino trips independently and chose the Camino Travel Center based on a number of features such as flexibility to accommodate a couple of “splits” in some of the longer days, price and customer service. They were, in fact the first company I came across in my very first Google search and the one I ended up booking with. From the initial inquiry to the actual trips, they have been a pleasure to deal with and we have been very impressed with the service provided (bag transportation) and the accommodation choices. I was not compensated to write about this trip in any way but I love sharing companies and products I believe in with my readers. I couldn’t recommend the Camino Travel Center more and, in fact, am booking another Camino walk with them for next summer (and every summer until I reach Santiago!).
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