Quantcast

Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – questions and answers

Keen boots hiking on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com(This post is in response to a number of frequent questions people asked as I walked nine days on the Camino in July 2016)

on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com1. What is the Camino de Santiago anyway?

The Camino de Santiago (The Way of St James in English) is a network of ancient routes used by pilgrims all over Europe that lead to Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain where it is believed the tomb of St James is located. Pilgrims have walked these roads since the 9th and 10th centuries, when conditions were very basic. In the centuries that followed more infrastructure was introduced along the routes (new bridges were built, roads resurfaced and more refuges and hospitals introduced) and pilgrims enjoyed excellent treatment as they made their way to Santiago (free accommodation and food as well as medical care).  These days the routes stretch from as far north as England to southern Spain (with the most popular being the Camino Frances which starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and runs over 800km into Santiago) and in the 1990s the Camino routes were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status.

Buen Camino on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com2. OK, so this is a religious pilgrimage – is that why you did this?

The reasons why people undertake (portions of) the Camino are so varied but these days I think it’s safe to say that whilst many pilgrims are seeking a spiritual experience (the reasons given for walking the Camino when people reach the end in Santiago and are applying for their official Compostela (completion certificate) seem to suggest this is the major reason), many are there to simply enjoy this very different way of travelling. Some are doing it on a dare, some as a “big birthday” present to themselves. Others are walking as a family or with a family member. Some are there for a digital detox (entirely possible if you wanted) and others are there for the physical and mental challenge this “walking holiday with a difference” provides. Others are walking it in memory of friends or family.

Pilgrims crossing on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comMy walking buddy, Yvonne, and I started discussing this a couple of years ago (admittedly over a couple of glasses of wine…) and kind of got it in our heads that we really wanted to do this, I guess for no other reason than the challenge and, to be honest, it sounded like a cool way to see a part of the world I didn’t know very well. I’ll say that personally, the look of incredulity on many people’s faces when I told them I was (thinking about) walking the Camino was a little bit of motivation too (probably not the best reason to undertake a strenuous walking holiday but in the interests of full disclosure, I’ll leave that here). People who know me well will know I can do whatever I want if I put my mind to it (and my body is willing!) but those who don’t know me as well (“She’s a baker/ cook/ writer/ teacher not a hiker!” I could see people thinking…) were a little surprised. This is not the sort of good-food-and-wine fuelled vacation people are used to seeing me take either so I knew it would come as a surprise to a few.

Keen boots on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comAt the end of the day, my nine days’ walking wasn’t the spiritual or religious experience many seek but I’ll say that walking (mostly in silence) for 4-7 hours a day does the mind as well as the body a lot of good. Puts things in perspective.

3. Um – you walked the entire Camino?

See above – I’m a baker/ cook/ teacher/ writer/ teacher. So, while I do have the vacation time (I’d say it would take me around 6 weeks to comfortably complete the 800 or so kilometres), that’s not something I think I would be interested in undertaking in one go. In fact, nine days (around 180km) was perfect – enough walking to make me see I am more capable than I (and others) gave myself credit for and short enough for it to remain pleasant and not “a slog” everyday (though the last couple of days it was hard getting up and pulling on our walking shoes).

Blue sky and sunflowers on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com4. Did you carry your luggage?

To be honest, one of the major reasons I had hesitated into looking into the Camino before now was the idea of carrying all my worldly goods and possessions on my back as I hiked though sometimes very challenging landscape. Though I am sure if my life depended on it, I could make that work, right now in my life it wasn’t something I was interested in proving to myself. I know myself well enough to know the walking alone was going to be a challenge. Nowadays, luckily, there are services all along the Camino which will transport your luggage from hostel/pension/hotel to hostel/ pension/ hotel so all you have to do is, well, walk carrying the things you need during the day.

Pamplona on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com5. Did you stay in hostels?

In keeping with what Yvonne and I dubbed the “Camino Lite”, no, we didn’t stay in the pilgrim hostels. Although these look like they have come a very long way since I backpacked through Europe in the early 1990s (many of them were in gorgeous historical buildings with all the creature comforts like Wifi and laundry services), sleeping in a bunk or dorm bed in a room with up to 50 other people just wasn’t the way I wanted to experience this trip.

Lost boot on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com(wait, you stayed in hotels and nicer guest houses and didn’t carry your own luggage? Where do I sign up?)

When we first had this idea, one of the very first things I did was Google “self guided walking tours of the Camino” and the very first result led me to the website of the Camino Travel Center.  Apart from the fact that their packages were chunked into manageable stages (we were interested in the first stage of the Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Logroño), but there seemed to be lots of different options available for splitting really long days (yes, please!) and baggage transportation. Ultimately I did look at three or four other companies but it was the customer service and price (for what, essentially looked like the exact same services) that sold me on Camino Travel Center.

View of Puente la Reina on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com6. C’mon, how hard was it really (compared to what you were expecting)?

Ok, I’ll be the first to admit I thought this would be so much easier than it was.  I mean, like – 20km in a day? I’d easily walk that in, say, London, Paris or New York on a regular “sightseeing” day. I wouldn’t be carrying my bags – what could be too hard about that. Sure, I knew there were a few steep sections but I also knew there were sections on country roads and farm paths so how hard could that be?

Hot day on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comWell actually, our stage was classified as a “difficult” stage on the Camino Travel Center’s site so I should have possibly taken that a little more seriously.  There were days when it was “only” 14km but it was raining and we were walking on muddy overgrown paths (with noone else in sight, I might add – not so reassuring!). That was hard. There were days when it was blazing hot (was expecting that) and we were to walk uphill for something like 10km pretty much non stop (guess I wasn’t expecting that!). There were days when it took over an hour to walk 3km because it was on loose gravel. So, “little” things like that made for a much harder experience than a “sightseeing 18km”. But, with a little good humour and a big effort, I did it. So, clearly not *too* hard.

No idea where we are on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com7. What about the food – what was that like?

Pilgrim meal on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comTo be honest I didn’t have too many expectations about the food – it wasn’t one of the reasons I was planning on undertaking this journey. I knew that there would be breakfast provided at each hotel/ guest house (of varying degree of quantity and quality but certainly nothing to complain about most days and a delight to behold on many days – think buffet with fresh fruits, eggs, breads and pastries and yoghurts along with local specialties like jamón and sheep’s milk cheese) to set us up for the day.

Breakfast at Hotel Roncesvalles on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comAs far as eating on the road, during the day we mostly snacked on fruits and nuts we had bought in previous towns and along the way we both consumed more soft drinks than we both had for the past year (when it’s hot, there’s nothing quite like a Fanta Limón!). It was simply too hot to stop for any amount of time to eat a complete meal and in any case, that would just have weighed us down and made the “end of day pace” even slower!

Pilgrim menu on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.comAt night though, we delighted in the so-called “Pilgrim Menu” offered in most of the restaurants and cafés in towns along the way. This includes three courses – entrée, main and dessert of very acceptable dishes (think salads or soups to start and pork or fish as a main while the dessert options were mostly flan, fruit or yoghurt) along with bread, a bottle of water and a bottle of wine for between 10 and 13€ (those were prices we saw, they may vary in different stages along the way. In most of the towns we passed through (with the exception of Pamplona and Logroño) we took advantage of this “deal” because it was a reliable way to make sure we ate at least one square meal each day. And no, you don’t need to finish the wine – you just drink what you feel like and leave the rest (which if you are like us, you will – noone wants to start a 20km walking day with a fuzzy head!)

Jamon Iberico on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com Pintxtos on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com8. Did you need any special gear? Is there anything you’d recommend?

As the person who had her luggage transported between hotels, I am hardly the person to recommend gear for those travelling lightly! I will say that next time (because I think there will be a next time) I will pack very differently (much lighter) though I still won’t carry my pack as I walk. So, what do I recommend?

  • My daypack was a small one (18L) because I knew I wouldn’t want to carry too much and I am the type of person who will fill a bag if I have one 😉 I loved that it was just big enough for my day’s necessities but that it’s also big enough to carry a laptop and other items as a carry-on item. Pretty happy with this purchase.
  • My water bottle. Sure you can buy water along the way but you may as well fill up with the water from the fountains along the way, right?
  • My portable battery packs for my iPhone. Yes, although many people tell you not to bring technology on the Camino, I brought mine 😉 Mainly to keep my family and friends updated via social media and photos but hey, Google Maps did come in handy a number of times! My phone doesn’t hold a charge for more than a few hours so a portable battery pack was useful.
  • My shoes. THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEM (well, as well as your socks, see below!). These KEEN boots fit like a glove, felt like slippers and saw me through some steep ascents and descents really well.
  • My socks. Next to your shoes, the socks are the most important item of clothing you will rely on for a walking holiday. Smart Wool socks mean your feet stay dry and blister-free (and even if they do get rained on, they dry quickly and don’t rub on your feet when they are wet).
  • My hat. Loved this hat because it had a wide brim, was easy to pack (it rolls up pretty much) and it’s actually a hat I’d wear on regular summer days. Essential in the hot weather as was my sunscreen.
  • Yoga Tune Up balls. Essential for rolling out my sore feet, legs and hips. Easy to carry with a big effect.

I’ll go into more details about other items I found useful in subsequent posts but those were the key things for me.

9. What else did you “do” (sightseeing etc..)?

To be honest, after we’d completed our walking for the day, it was mostly 3-4pm (with one day ending around 1 and one ending at 5) so there was not much time to “see the sights”. Fortunately, most towns you stay in are fairly small so you don’t need that much time to explore with the exception of say, Pamplona and Logroño.  In hindsight, I’d have added on an extra day (so, a rest day) in Pamplona so we could have explored a little more because that was a very tough, hot day’s walk and by the time we arrived, napped, showered etc.. it was around 7pm so, apéro then dinner then early to bed. When you are walking the Camino, you don’t stay out partying unless you want a really, really hard day the following day…

Buen Camino graffiti on the Camino on eatlivetravelwrite.com10. Is there some sort of guide book for the Camino?

There are not many books you can purchase to “guide” you along the way – indeed, most people we saw didn’t have any book or map at all – they just relied on information they’v received in every place they stayed (maps for the day ahead etc…). As part of our package we received one copy of John Brierley’s “A Pligrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago” on the first day of our trip and I bought my own copy months before we left so I could read a little ahead.  This book has a strong emphasis on the spiritual aspect of the Camino which might not be for everyone but it is essentially the only comprehensive guidebook available (with route information and maps). For information on where to eat (when there is a choice, sometimes there is not) and things to see, you might want to do a little bit more research.

(Bonus) Did you train for this in any way? Sounds like a lot of walking every day – if I am not used to that how can I prepare myself?

I *thought* I trained enough for this  trip – walking 3-4 times a week and then walking 6-8 km everyday  in the few weeks leading up to the trip. Was it enough? Probably not but I don’t really know what would have prepared me for the inclines and descents (and the heat!) we encountered. So I’d say someone with a moderate fitness level with no known medical issues would be fine on this stage.  DO go walking before the trip, get your legs, feet (and shoes!) used to what it feels like. Try to walk in a park where it’s not just concrete you are walking on.  And just do what I did, à la The Little Engine that Could. One foot after another. If I can do it… (Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional so if you are in doubt, ask your doctor).

 

Thanks for reading this far – hopefully this answered some of your questions so far. Stay tuned for posts on each day of the Camino over the next few weeks…

_________

Disclosure: I researched Camino trips independently and chose the Camino Travel Center based on a number of features such as flexibility to accommodate a couple of “splits” in some of the longer days, price and customer service. They were, in fact the first company I came across in my very first Google search and the one I ended up booking with. From the initial inquiry to the actual trip, they were a pleasure to deal with and we were very impressed with the service provided (bag transportation) and the accommodation choices. I was not compensated to write about this trip in any way but I love sharing companies and products I believe in with my readers. I couldn’t recommend the Camino Travel Center more and, in fact, am looking at booking another Camino walk with them in the future.

Please note: This post contains product links from Amazon which are affiliate links, meaning if you click over and purchase something, I will receive a very small percentage of the purchase price which goes towards maintaining eat. live. travel. write. Thank you in advance!

____________________

Read more about the Camino de Santiago:

Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – questions and answers
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 2: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 4: Zubiri to Pamplona
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 5: Pamplona to Puente la Reina
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 6: Puente la Reina to Estella
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 7: Estella to Los Arcos
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 8: Los Arcos to Viana
Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – Day 9: Viana to Logroño

, , , , , ,

30 Responses to Walking (part of) the Camino de Santiago – questions and answers

  1. J Barbeau August 2, 2016 at 18:25 #

    My sister, Jennifer A is currently hiking the Camino too. Please say
    Hi if you meet her.

    • Mardi Michels August 3, 2016 at 08:12 #

      We have finished our 9 days now. I hope your sister enjoyed herself!

  2. Geoff August 2, 2016 at 18:58 #

    Loved the post, Mardi. Interesting and useful (a rare combination). And, well done.

  3. Cathy August 2, 2016 at 20:11 #

    Thanks for this post Mardi. I would love to do the Camino but have been put off by the distance and carrying my own gear. Your post has given me the inspiration to attempt it in small bites.

    • Mardi Michels August 3, 2016 at 08:11 #

      Oh I think it’s totally do-able broken up into stages like this! Go for it!

  4. Janice August 3, 2016 at 10:51 #

    Bookmarking this! I think you are right that many of us are guilty of thinking it’s easier than it actually is. Good for you for picking a tougher route (even though it wasn’t on purpose)!
    I still want to do it… One day!

    • Mardi Michels August 5, 2016 at 01:49 #

      Yeah, no way did I think it would be as hard as it was. Cocky old me, huh?

  5. Cathy August 3, 2016 at 11:36 #

    Good for you! I’m sure you looked forward to those meals at the end of each day!

    • Mardi Michels August 5, 2016 at 01:49 #

      To be honest, food wasn’t a big priority on this trip – but the good value meals were certainly a bonus.

  6. Laura August 3, 2016 at 14:12 #

    What an incredible adventure! I would love to do this with my family when my kids are a little older. Your tips are awesome. This is a bucket list trip!

    • Mardi Michels August 5, 2016 at 01:48 #

      Thanks so much – we saw a few families with kids around 10-12. I’d say you would definitely want to wait until at least then, maybe later…

  7. Bernice Hill August 3, 2016 at 20:12 #

    I had never even heard of the Camino de Santiago until we were in Bruges on holiday. I saw the little seashells everywhere after that first spotting…I would LOVE to do a portion of the trail someday. You are very inspiring Mardi, and I loved keeping up with your adventure on Instagram. Thanks for posting.

  8. Erin August 4, 2016 at 15:28 #

    Just about to start our 5 day CF Aug/13. I have a few last minute burning questions:

    1) What time did you start your days along the CF? I see you mentioned your finishing times.
    2) Also, how reliable did you find the Brierley guide? I have it too. Or do you also recommend the maps you mentioned you can get along the way?
    3) And, any recommendations for data plans/how often you needed online maps and did they find the camino (so far they seem to just show clearly demarcated roads)?

    Merci!

    Erin Doucette

    • Mardi Michels August 5, 2016 at 01:46 #

      Hi Erin, Have a blast! I hope the weather is a little cooler! We started most days between 7.30 and 8. So, late by “pilgrim standards”. We split our 7 day stage into 9 so we had less km to walk each day but that really only helped on Day 1 and Day 9. The rest of the days were around 20-24. The Brierly guide is the only real guide there is, I found. I found it lacking in information about 1. things to do, 2. places to eat and drink and 3. rest stops along the way. Camino Travel Center gave us maps for arriving in each town but we didn’t really need them. The route along the way is mostly pretty clear (except SJPP – Valcarlos – Roncesvalles which would have been much easier had it not been pouring with rain – so if you are doing that route, ask for more info or print your own out before you go).As for Data plans since I don’t know where you are from I can’t help much. My French phone company had a deal on matching data anywhere in Europe for free this summer so I used that. Google Maps did not find the Camino path perse but some of the paths were on there. Don’t rely on that though. Yvonne had a SIM card from Vodaphone in the UK that was good for data in Europe but again, not knowing where you are from that might not be of use to you. Everywhere we stayed had Wifi and lots of the cafés along the way too. Does that help?

      • Erin August 8, 2016 at 11:45 #

        Thanks! This certainly does help!!!! I’ve decided to go without data as it is so expensive (I’m with Bell Mobility in Canada). I can use wifi when available and FB messenger to chat with family or even call them again when on wifi.

        Yes, we’re doing the SJPP to Valcarlos then Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. Good to know should we have rain. So far the forecast looks sunny and hot!

        We’re going as far as Puente la Reina then off for some R&R in San Sebastian then back into France before we head home (2 week trip in total).

        As far as the Brierley book I’m just happy it kept you on course. We’ll manage to find amusement and whatnot as we land town to town, but I just don’t want to get lost and have to figure out how to eat a mountain goat with my swiss army knife, kinda thing…

        Thanks again!

        • Mardi Michels August 8, 2016 at 12:02 #

          You will have a blast! I assume you are being brave and carrying your luggage? Go you! You should not get lost but I am interested to hear about how you get on from Valcarlos to Roncesvalles 😉 Hopefully it won’t be raining much then! Do you need San Seb tips? Feel free to email me mardi at eatlivetravelwrite dot com. And hey, I know a lovely house for rent in the South West of France that’s just 3 hours from San Seb… #justsaying…

  9. Redawna August 5, 2016 at 13:59 #

    I was wondering what you were doing! When I seen you were walking the Camino I immediately thought of a video I have watched many times on YouTube (I have put a link to it below, it is a must watch)

    https://youtu.be/ZmDhRvvs5Xw

    What a fantastic adventure Mardi!
    I feel like I have wasted my summer! Ha. 🙂

    Have a spectacular weekend.

    • Mardi Michels August 6, 2016 at 01:03 #

      Oh my goodness, I hardly think a 9 day walk should make you feel you’ve wasted your summer – you have had some amazing experiences too! And um, that Camino del Rey? Yikes! No thanks!!

  10. Betsy August 5, 2016 at 21:55 #

    Thanks for sharing about your Camino adventure. Sounds like a great experience.

  11. Sally - My Custard Pie August 10, 2016 at 02:32 #

    Love that you were motivated by rebelliousness Mardi – totally relate! Had heard of the Camino but didn’t really know much about it. Love the details you’ve shared – the pilgrim meals, how interesting. I want to tackle the South West Coast Path in sections over the next few years or would be very tempted by this.

    • Mardi Michels August 10, 2016 at 02:41 #

      It’s very very do-able in stages is what I think! Sounds like it would be right up your alley !

  12. Jeanne Horak-Druiff August 11, 2016 at 04:02 #

    Wow – thanks for all this info Mardi! i am so impressed that you did this – as a big fan of walking I have always had in the back of my mind that I’d like to do this someday and you have reignited that spark. Great practical tips – and i also love my red Wallaroo hat and Smartwool socks! 🙂

    • Mardi Michels August 11, 2016 at 06:51 #

      Yay for socks and hats and walking holidays! Glad you found it useful!

  13. Fiona Maclean August 11, 2016 at 09:58 #

    sounds good to me. If I DID try to walk the Camino de Santiago I’d do much the same. Nice hotels and someone to carry my luggage…perfect

  14. Louisa August 13, 2016 at 23:22 #

    Love following along on Instagram and this recap is full of great information. Super impressed by all the walking you did, I don’t think I’d ever be able to do that!

    • Mardi Michels August 14, 2016 at 06:52 #

      You know Lou, I didn’t think I would be able to do it either after the first couple of days but I did!

Leave a Reply