A hybrid of American popovers and Provençal panisses
Which is all very well if you know what a panisse is. I read here that
Panisses (“pah-NEESS” in both the singular and plural) are chickpea fritters. They’re basically polenta, but made from garbanzo flour; like polenta, chickpea mush sets up hard when allowed to cool, at which point the concoction is sliced and fried.
Ok then. And a popover? Joe Pastry says
A small Yorkshire pudding is the answer. Basically a very puffy, nearly hollow muffin. That’s the ideal at any rate, since popovers have a notoriously high failure rate, and all too often resemble actual muffins for their compact size and density. They don’t “pop over” in other words…overflow the bounds of the small cups they’re baked in.
Ok, so like a Yorkshire pudding made with chickpea flour? I can do that!
I actually made a half recipe of these on the day I flew to France (and enjoyed a couple with the vegetable soup with pistou we made recently). They came together really quickly – I used a muffin tin and they did rise pretty dramatically (though David warned that they might not) but by the time I got them outside to photograph, they had settled down considerably. Still, they were impressive!
As you can see they were lovely and light and fluffy inside (and a bit hollow, the way they should be) but they stuck a little. I did oil the pans really well and they are normally very non-stick so not sure how to get around that? In any case, these were very tasty – they have a hint of cumin and cayenne pepper for a bit of a kick! I’ll definitely make them again as a side to, for example a lamb dish as David suggests. Might have to wait until the weather cools down a little though!
Get the recipe for David Lebovitz’s Panisse Puffs on p 245 of My Paris Kitchen.
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