I was so excited when I realised that I would have time in between my conferences here in Philadelphia to visit the Reading Terminal Market. The website’s description is pretty much my idea of a top tourist destination:
Mouth-watering aromas. Produce fresh from the field. Amish specialties. Fresh meats, seafood, and poultry. Unique, hand-made pottery, jewelry and crafts from around the world. The hustle and bustle of a multitude of diverse people. It’s all here in Philadelphia’s historic farmers market, Reading Terminal Market. An exhilarating selection of baked goods, meats, poultry, seafood, produce, flowers, ethnic foods, cookware and eclectic restaurants are peppered throughout the Market.
I had actually heard of the Market as being the home to a couple of “must eat” places and, indeed the lines at both were outrageous the morning I visited:
But the market is so much more than that. It reminded me a little of the Adelaide Central Market which I visited last summer, small enough to not be overwhelming but large enough to provide a wide range of goods to make it a fascinating destination for the better part of a morning.
(The followingiInformation about the history of the Market is adapted and summarised from the very detailed “History” page on the website.)
Since the city’s establishment, markets have a been an important part of life in Philadelphia. In the city’s early days, there was a market along the Delaware River in the area known as High Street. This market expanded westward, eventually arriving at Market Street and continued to grow to the point where, in the middle of the 19th Century, the market was 6 blocks long. In 1859, however, the markets were dismantled after complaints about the health hazards they posed and the obstacles they created for traffic. Two new markets were created which would become the forerunners of what is now Reading Terminal Market, which opened its doors in 1892.
The then state-of-the-art Market was approximately 78,000 square feet holding nearly 800 spaces for merchants. The Market was laid out on a grid – similar to the streets of Philadelphia and had the biggest refrigeration facility in the city. A unique aspect of the Market was the free “basket service” on suburban trains. Taking advantage of the railroad involvement in the Market, suburban housewives could arrange for their grocery orders to be filled at the Market, the basket to be placed on a train bound for their towns and held at the station until they picked them up. Eventually, horse-drawn wagons gave way to refrigerated trucks and in the years after World War I, the Market provided delivery service every hour to around 60 suburban towns and resorts along the New Jersey shore.
The Depression was a difficult time for the Market and the railroad, however at the end of the 1930s, the market still boasted 10 of the original 1892 merchants. The market also came through World War II relatively unscathed, with 97% occupancy of the stalls in 1944. The 1960s were difficult years for the railroad company and the Market was affected by this when the cold storage facility was shut down and dismantled. The railroad company finally went into bankruptcy in 1971 and by 1976, the Reading was no longer operating as a railroad corporation. The late 70s and early 80s were especially difficult for the Market as it received little to no attention and the market dwindled. In 1985, the city’s commuter rail system was rerouted to bypass the Reading Terminal and the Pennsylvania Convention Centre Authority was created to acquire and convert the terminal into an entranceway for the new Convention Center. Philadelphians got on board and demanded that the Market receive some attention and rehabilitation. The Market revitalization began in the early 1990s.
Today, Reading Terminal Market is once again the gastronomic treasure trove it was originally planned to be. Two of the more than 80 merchants are descendants of the original standholders from 1892! Many historic stands survived reconstruction and the market is once again a thriving hub filled with local produce, dairy, meat, poultry, seafood, crafts, jewelry, clothing, and, of course, eateries. There really is something for everyone.
Candies, sweets, cakes, chocolates galore:
It is home to Bassett’s Ice Cream Company, a fifth generation family business and a Philadelphia tradition since 1861:
According to the Bassett’s website, in 1893, Lewis Dubois Bassett moved production of his ice cream to the newly built Reading Terminal Market. At the same time he also opened a retail store. The store that he opened is still in the same location in the Reading Terminal with the original marble counters and is still owned and operated by Lewis Dubois’ great-great grandsons Michael Strange and Roger Bassett.
There is also wonderful coffee and home made coffee cake from Old City Coffee Company – perfect to enjoy as you sit perched on a stool at one of the counters taking in all the gastronomic delights surrounding you!
Regular Hours of the Market
Monday through Saturday: 8:00 am–6:00 pm
Note: Some of the Market’s restaurants close after 5:00pm.
Sunday : 9:00 am–5:00 pm
NOTE: Not all merchants are open on Sundays. In general, about two-thirds of Market vendors open on Sundays, representing a good cross-section of merchandise categories. Pennsylvania Dutch vendors are not open on Sundays.
Pennsylvania Dutch Vendors
Wednesday 8:00 am–3:00 pm
Thursday–Saturday 8:00 am–5:00 pm
Closed Sunday
Holidays
Please note that the Market is CLOSED on the following holidays: New Year’s Day, Easter Sunday, Memorial Day, Independence Day, Labor Day, Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day.
51 North 12th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107-2954
(215) 922-2317
Wow! I want to go there and just spend one entire week in this market. I lived in Philly from January 1981 for about 3 years and sadly was too poor to enjoy the food. At that time it had just started becoming the fabulous food city it became and I so want to get back there and discover it all. Great post, Mardi, and hope you are having a blast and eating well!
Thanks Jamie – what a pity to have been there and not have enjoyed the food! I hope you will be there soon!
Great post. I hope markets like these just go on forever and that people actually appreciate their existence.
Yes I love markets with such a great sense of history.
Great Post!! I lived in Philly for 2 years, and the reading market really is a great spot for fresh produce, loose leaf teas, and some yummy snacking!!
Great post!! I love Reading!!! Every time I go I find something new and tasty!!
Yes it’s one of those places I think you need to visit again and again 🙂
I spent a summer in Philly, and this was one of my favorite places. Love the photos! The cupcakes with the sprinkles. =)
Yes I could spend a summer here visiting it every day!
what a great tour of the Reading Terminal!! Your images are outstanding! I was just thinking about going over there, I guess I’m spoiled with it so close to home!
Thanks again for such a wonderful post!
Oh I am SO jealous of you living so close to it!
solid chocolate noses!!!!
No joke!
Thanks for the great tour! I’m sure I could spend a few hours milling around this Reading Terminal Market- what a great way to fill up an afternoon!
Yes I could have spent a lot longer there too!
Had a fleeting visit to Philly about 10 years ago and just knew I had to return some day……..fast forward the clock………I visited Reading every single day during the week I spent in Philly when I returned, thanks for reviving the memories Mardi.
Had I had the time, I would have been there every day too!!
The photo’s you captured of the Reading Market are beautiful, you managed to capture all the color and energy! I lived down the Jersey shore which is not to far from Philadelphia but have never been there but I will visit on my next trip back! Thanks for sharing.
Oh you’re so lucky to live so close!
Wonderful post, Mardi! How awesome does this place look?! God…although I haven’t been, I feel like I have such a strong sense of it from your fabulous photos. If I’m ever in Philly…I’m so here.
Oh Megan – you would love it!!! Thanks for the sweet comment on my photos!
Wow I can’t believe for all the times I’ve been to Philly I’ve never been here. We are going for our anniversary and I will def be hitting this place up!
Oh Nicole you would LOVE it!
I love to go to the market when in any town or city. It is as important as the Art Galleries to me as it gives such an intimate snapshot of the culture at that moment in time.
I so agree – I am all about markets and supermarkets when on vacation!
I miss Reading Terminal so much! I spent many an hour there when I was a kid. Thanks for sharing the photos. They make me want to jump on a plane and go back home right now (except that would mean I have to fly and I hate that)!
Oh – how fun that you remember it from your childhood!
Amazing! Longing for the day I’ll be able to visit this nice market. But I didn’t get why “Reading” market. Could you explain that, please?
It’s the name of the railway company!
Wow … I had no idea what all was at the Reading Terminal Market in Philly! I will have to take the train out there to check it out sometime (since it’s practically in the backyard).
Oh Jen you TOTALLY need to get yourself there!
Gorgeous photos! Those chocolate noses look a bit suss… 😉
I know, eh? 😉
Great photos. Thanks for this glimpse of the market.
Glad you got to enjoy it early in the day before it becomes packed!
Yes thanks for the great suggestion!
Now 70 years old, I’ve been going to The Reading Terminal since age 8. The family went there on Saturdays for the week’s shopping. Then we’d eat a delicious lunch. Of course we’d see many of our neighbors and friends there also.
Still shop there and have my favorite vendors. Eat lunch at the Dutch Eating Place or get food from a stand and sit in the area where live music is being performed. LOVE The Reading Terminal!!
What a wonderful story and how fabulous that you have seen the market change (but not much) over the years! Thanks for stopping by my blog!
I love the Reading Terminal Market and am so happy you got the chance to tour around! I’m now dreaming of the DiNic sandwiches and Dutch breakfast I ate there (http://www.highlowfooddrink.com/2010/03/reading-terminal-market-philadelphias.html)
Well thank you for the wonderful suggestion!
I desperately want a chocolate and nut covered ice cream cone filled with ice cream and finished off with a chocolate nose. Nay, TWO chocolate noses.
That would be a spectacular dessert!
Great photos!
I have a question:
re:
this picture
The berries on the top-left between the blueberries: I’ve seen these before and loved their acidity! Do you know what they’re called? My Oma grows them over in Europe and I’ve never come across them up here in Canada?
tia!
I think they are white currants!
I went to Reading a couple of years ago when I traveled to Philly to run one of the half marathons there. Believe me, it was the highlight of the trip! (Though I did run personal best in the race!) Great to see the energy and color captured through your photos!
Congrats on the PB and yes, Reading is definitely a Philly highlight!